How to See a Geisha in Kyoto (or Six of Them!)

Ever since I planned my trip to Kyoto, catching a glimpse of a Geisha was on top of my list. There was something secretive, enduring and mysterious about them. I thought I would, at the most see one, I saw 6 Geisha (and 6 Maiko)!
(The above image is a Geisha with her apprentice Maiko behind her)

Who is a Geisha? (pronounced Gaysha)
Geisha (or Geiko like they are called in Kyoto) are entertainers or hostesses highly skilled in classical music, dance, games, and conversation, who appear at high-end dinners, private parties and special events at ochaya (tea houses) or at traditional Japanese restaurants (ryōtei) to entertain male customers, but also female customers today. They are not prostitutes. “Geisha engagements may include flirting with men; however, clients know that nothing more can be expected. In a social style that is common in Japan, men are amused by the illusion of that which is never to be. When Geisha culture first came into existence in the Edo period, women in “pleasure quarters” called themselves Geishas and probably the reason for the myth.”

Apprentice Geisha are called Maiko.

Modern Geisha live in traditional Geisha houses called okiya in areas called hanamachi (“flower towns”). Many experienced Geisha are successful enough to live independently.

Seeing a Geisha perform in an Ochaya is exclusive plus expensive – It requires a referral from an existing client along with a huge fee. So one of the easiest and cheapest ways to see them is while they walk from their okiya to the ochaya for work.

How to differentiate from a real Geisha and a tourist dressed up like a Geisha?
Tourists usually walk around at a leisure pace, take photos and agree to stop for you to take her picture. Real Geisha do not do that. When dressed up, they are on the way to work or on the way back so they do not have time in spare.

How to see a Geisha (the big question!)
We went to the entrance of the Ichiriki Ochaya Teahouse in Gion – Google Map location. It is only a few hundred meters from Yasaka Shrine and is in the heart of Gion.

Ichiriki Ochaya Teahouse is one of the most famous and historic tea houses in Kyoto and is an exclusive and high-end establishment; access is invitation only and entertainment can cost upwards of 800,000 yen a night.

We got there at 5:30pm and waited and waited (along with others who had come there in the hope of a glimpse). We saw a lot of customers getting down from their taxis and getting into the teahouse. At around 6 (I was just randomly clicking some photos), I turned around and there was my first Geisha sighting just inches away from my face!

It was un unexplainable euphoric feeling that I experienced at that moment. She walked into the Ichiriki Ochaya Teahouse. And then one by one, we saw a total of 6 Geisha and 6 Maiko. Just look around in the side lanes next to and opposite to the teahouse.

I am sorry that the images are blurry – they walk that fast! After around 6:40 pm, we didn’t see any more of them. I heard a fellow tourist say that he hadn’t until now felt the same excitement after catching a really huge fish a few years ago.

We took a few videos in our phone 🙂

Geisha are aware that they are a unique aspect of the Japanese culture, but people need to respect them too. Don’t block their way by standing in front of them when they’re walking. Take photos from the side or back.

How to differentiate between a Geisha and a Maiko

A Maiko’s appearance is more colorful and elaborate than a Geisha’s. The reason for the change in appearance after becoming a Geisha is that she has now become mature.

Hair: A Geisha wears a wig while a Maiko doesn’t. (Maiko sleep with their necks on small supports (takamakura), instead of pillows, so that they can keep their hairstyle perfect). A Maiko wears flower ornaments in her hair.

Makeup: A Maiko has a line of bare skin around the hairline (due to not wearing a wig), which creates the illusion of a mask.

Kimono: While a Geisha wears a simple kimono with a white collar, a Maiko wears a colorful one with a decorative collar.

Belt(obi): A Maiko’s obi drapes down the back while a Geisha’s obi is folded into a square shape at her back.

Age: Maiko are aged between 15-18. A Geisha often starts at around 21-23 of age.

Here is a guide to Kyoto – 10 things to do in kyoto.  Here is a A guide to visiting Japan on a budget.